Add this not so hidden gem to your Paris itinerary
When you think of Paris, you can’t help but think of the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, or the dreamy banks of the Seine River. But another site, over in the 9th arrondissement, is the Palais Garnier, and it is definitely worth a visit. What makes the Palais Garnier so special? Well, it is undoubtedly one of the most iconic architectural masterpieces in Paris.
Here’s a little history. It all started in the era of Napoleon III. Ten years after Napoleon had hired Georges-Eugène Haussmann to make Paris more functional and modern, he ordered the construction of a new opera house in Paris. The old Paris Opera house was in a temporary building on rue Le Peletier, but it was much too small and the area where it was located was too busy. Not to mention he was almost killed by an assassination attempt there. He wanted to build a new Opera House to go along with his new Paris. Something lavish and grand, a symbol of power and wealth, and one that would, for his own personal safety, have better security.
Napoleon wanted to find the best architect for his new Opera House, so he held a competition, and 171 architects applied. It was a two-phase competition, and after the first round, seven architects were left as finalists. One, of course, was Charles Garnier. It is said that Charles placed 5th in the first phase, but he made some changes to his initial drawings and ended up winning the competition unanimously. Charles was not very well known at the time, and this win is what made him famous. Not bad for a 35 year old. Work began in 1861 and was completed in 1875.
The architectural style of the opera house is an eclectic mix of Renaissance, Neo-Baroque, the ornate, swirly, dramatic architecture that you see throughout Europe, and Beaux-Arts. At the time, people wondered what to call this new mixed style of architecture. It is said, that when asked what the architectural style of his opera house was, Charles would say “It is the Napoleon III style”. Domes covered with sculptures and frescoes, balconies with curved supports with carvings of people and animals, vaulted cupolas and ornately painted ceilings. Lavish in every sense of the word. Including thirty different types of marble brought in from different countries.
Charles’ innovation and creativity are what make the Palais Garnier the spectacle that it was and still is today. You visit to view the architecture, and it truly is spectacular, everywhere you turn there’s something amazing to see. In every corner you can find some little detail that is fascinating to look at.
Before heading inside be sure to walk around the outside of the building because there is a lot to see there. For example, the two gold statues on the corners of the roof, Poetry on the right, and Harmony on the left. In the center, you will see the statue of Apollo holding up a golden lyre, the symbol of his role as the god of music and poetry. Once inside you can do a self-guided tour. You can explore the Palais Garnier on your own by purchasing a ticket on their website, you will need to create an account to do this. You can also bundle a river cruise with your entry ticket. Or you can book a guided tour that offers in-depth insights and stories about the opera house’s history and architecture. Private tours are the best because you have the guide all to yourself and can move around at your own pace. Some companies also offer “skip the line” tickets, which I have purchased from time to time during the busier months when the lines can be very long.
It’s pretty awe inspiring to wander up the marble staircase and see the intricate ceiling paintings by Marc Chagall. Don’t miss a visit to the main auditorium, where you will see the numbered red velvet seats, some with the names of the season ticket holders who occupy them. You can even try to spot the infamous Phantom of the Opera’s box (Box No. 5), inspired by Gaston Leroux’s famous novel, which is set in the Palais Garnier. Be sure to also look for the Sun Lounge or Salon Du Soleil, where you will see a dragon and a salamander on the ceiling; the domed ceiling of the Moon Lounge, or Salon de la Lune, painted with bats and owls, and the Bassin de la Pythie.
One of the most glorious ways to visit though, is by attending a show. I subscribe to their newsletter, and they send emails out about upcoming performances and to let you know when tickets go on sale. If you buy tickets, it’s important to make sure that you are selecting a show at the Palais Garnier and not the Bastille Opera. The Paris Opera has two locations, the Palais Garnier and the Opera Bastille. The Opera Bastille is in a more modern building just off the Place de la Bastille. It has a much larger stage, and the performances tend to be the more contemporary productions.
The Opera Garnier is open everyday with some exceptions. Sometimes they will be closed in the morning or afternoon or all day for theater activities, so be sure to check their website. If you book with a third party vendor you won’t need to worry about this as much. Opening hours are from 10:00AM to 4:00PM (the doors close promptly at 5:00PM)
Palais Garnier also has a restaurant on site called Coco that is open from 7:30AM to 2:00AM, note that they stop serving at 11:00PM. You may have seen glamorous photos of this restaurant on Instagram or TikTok, and it is beautiful. The food is pretty good but expensive, the terrace is a really nice place to sit and watch the world go by. In the bar you can find things like oeufs mayonnaise, petite sandwiches, blinis with truffled tarama, charcuterie, and French fries. Some things you can expect to find on the lunch and dinner menu include Sea Bream, Lobster Ravioli, Tuna Tartare, roasted chicken, beef or veal tenderloin, and lamb. There are also some salads and desserts.
Metro lines 3,7, & 8 will get you to the Opera station, also bus lines 20, 21, 27, 29, 32, 45, 52.
Palais Garnier
Place de l’Opera, Paris, 75009
Entrance is on the corner of Scribe & Auber streets
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