Promenade Plantée (12th Arrondissement)
Paris definitely has a lot of secrets. Roaming around the city is like being on an exhilarating treasure hunt that you never want to end. I had been visiting Paris for several years before I ever even knew about its hidden botanical garden in the sky. It is nearly impossible to see unless you know that it’s there. The Promenade plantée (promenade meaning “a walk”) and plantée (meaning “planted”, also known as the Coulee Vert), rests atop an old raised, unused railroad track, high above the city. Construction and planting of this gem began in 1988 and was completed in 1994. Time was taken to create something exceptional, and it is exceptional. It is the model for New York’s High Line trail, a similar planted walkway on an unused railroad track in New York’s Manhattan neighborhood.
These planted walkways can offer a nice respite from the crowded sidewalks of the city. The Promenade plantée begins near Bastille and stretches approximately 3 miles along the 12th arrondissement to the Bois de Vincennes. The entrance to the Promenade plantée is about a third of a mile from the Opera Bastille. Head south on Rue de Lyon, then stay to the left where it splits. The street that splits off will be Avenue Daumesnil. Stay on the left side of the street and continue walking for a bit. Look for some stairs and a sign that says Coulée verte René-Dumont – the official name of the promenade. Head up those stairs and you will be at the beginning of your walk.
There are many little garden areas and benches to sit on along the way. There are also other various things along the way like kid’s play areas, tunnels, bridges, and an outdoor workout space. One tunnel has many murals painted on the inside walls that are quite amazing.
Part of the tracks run along the top of an old viaduct, a series of arches made from red bricks. Today, the viaduct has been transformed into an array of shops and artists studios known as the Viaduct des Arts. Sometimes I walk the length of the Promenade plantée, and then pop down to the street level for the walk back. On the way back you will be very near one of my favorite wine bars in Paris called OLGA. They specialize in natural wines and have a nice selection of cheeses and delicious sandwiches made on fresh fluffy French baguettes. If you enjoy walking, love plants, or if you just need a break from the hustle and bustle, make a point to find this “planted walk” when you’re in Paris. It is a very unique and special place. Wear your comfortable shoes for walking in Paris, because this path goes for several miles!
My favorite mural along the Promenade Plantée
Promenade Plantée aka Coulée Verte René-Dumont
1 Coulée Verte René-Dumont
75012, Paris, France
The entrance is right near Bastille at the intersection of Avenue Daumesnil and Rue de Lyon. Look for the red brick viaduct and enter by going up the stairs.
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10 Responses
That looks like a lovely walk through green and gold, and it reminds me that I need to get out of my car and walk more often!