If you’re searching for the most charming coastal towns in France, then Saint-Malo should be at the very top of your list
This medieval walled town on the Brittany coast feels like something out of a storybook – with ramparts overlooking the sea, narrow cobbled streets, and a history shaped by sailors and corsairs. The best things to do in Saint-Malo all have to do with the sea. Long strolls along the beach, walks on top of the ramparts while enjoying gorgeous views, or swimming in the impressive saltwater pool. The town also makes a good base for traveling to other nearby places, like the adjacent charming seaside town of Dinard, or the medieval village Dinan on the Rance river. It is also very easy to get to the iconic UNESCO World Heritage site of Mont-Saint-Michel from here. All three can be reached from Saint-Malo without needing a car. Details on how to get to all three places are at the end of this article.
A Brief History of Saint-Malo
Saint-Malo sits on the northern coast of Brittany along the English channel. It is in the Ille-et-Vilaine department, one of Brittany’s four departments. Perched on the rugged coast of Brittany, Saint-Malo has a rich maritime history that stretches back more than a thousand years.
It was originally founded in the 12th century around a fortified island settlement known as Intra-Muros. It grew into one of Frances’s most important seafaring ports. During the 16th and 17th centuries Saint-Malo became famously known for its corsairs. These were state sanctioned privateers, like pirates except operating legally with permission of the government. These privateers would raid enemy ships and bring the bounty back to the city, which was, I am assuming, a less destructive way of weakening the enemy.
in Saint-Malo
in Saint-Malo
in Saint-Malo
The town has thick granite ramparts that were built to defend against attacks from rival navies, giving it the mighty fortress appearance that still remains today. Most of the historic center was destroyed during World War II, but the city was rebuilt, stone by stone, restoring the medieval streets and buildings to their original state.
What to do in Saint-Malo
If you like to swim there is a large salt water pool right on the edge of the sea that you can walk in and out of from the sandy beach. A formidable seawall surrounds the giant pool, and you can walk along it and jump off into the water at any point. Along the far edge of the wall is a diving board. In the summer kids line up to take turns jumping. The beach in front of the pool has soft sand and is a perfect place to spend a summer afternoon on a blanket with a picnic lunch or a good book.
If you like to walk you will be in heaven in Saint-Malo. There are three different areas where you can walk, inside the ramparts, outside the ramparts, or on top of the ramparts. I recommend doing all three, because each one gives a different experience. Walking inside the walls, along the cobbled streets of the town, you will find all kinds of specialty shops, boulangeries, fromageries, cafes and restaurants.
One of my favorite walks is on top of the ramparts. A cool breeze on a warm summer night while the sun is setting or an early morning run with sea in from every direction. There’s an area up on the ramparts called Bastion de la Hollande where rows of historic cannons still face toward the sea. Near this spot there are some grassy areas with benches where you can sit and take in the surroundings. One lap around the top of the ramparts is about a mile, and there are a few spots where you have to drop down to the street and then back up on various staircases. This is a great workout!
If you want a longer walk you can exit the walled city and head to the left past the vintage carousel.
You will see an esplanade that stretches along the waters edge, this paved part goes for about three miles. You can walk along the esplanade or, when the weather is warmer you can opt to walk barefoot in the sand.
The architecture along here is very different than the stone and granite buildings inside the walls of the city. Here you will see Belle Époque style dwellings that were built as vacation homes by wealthy families back in the late 1800’s. Wedged in between these beautiful homes and hotels are charming little restaurants and cafes.
Couleur Café is a great stop for breakfast after an early morning run. They have great coffee and healthy menu items like scrambled eggs and homemade granola. They are also known for their homemade banana bread, which is usually still warm in the morning. They do close down during the winter months so be sure to check opening times if you’re planning on visiting. There are also great spots for lunch and dinner along this stretch of the beach. You won’t see as many tourists in this area compared to inside the city walls, and I highly recommend checking it out.
Save some time for shopping because there are dozens of specialty shops in Saint-Malo. There are shoe shops and clothing stores, plenty of places to buy a new swimsuit, cover-up, or beach hat. One of my favorite specialty shops is the Bordier butter shop, where you can find a large selection of their famous butters, including their flavored butters like smoked sea salt, yuzu and vanilla. Chefs all over Europe know that the best butter comes from Brittany, and many believe that the Bordier butter, made by this little company, is the best in the world. Three things contribute to this. First is the slow production, up to twelve times longer than traditional butter. Second is expertise, slow churning and hand kneading with wooden paddles. Third is the terroir (ter-wahr), the unique combination of soil and climate. Similar to how terroir plays a role in the way a wine tastes, it also plays a major role in the flavor of the iconic Brittany butter. Let me explain. Brittany sits on ancient granite and schist bedrock, which slowly releases minerals into the soil. These minerals nourish the grass that the cows eat. Those minerals influence the flavor profile in the cream. In addition, grass fed cows produce milk with higher butterfat, more aromatic compounds and a richer texture. It’s difficult to take butter home in your suitcase (although many people do it!) so I recommend buying a few cubes to spread on a fresh baguette with some ham during your visit. Add a bottle of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, a wine that hails from a region about a hundred miles south, and is very popular and abundant in this region, and you have the perfect afternoon picnic.
Walk to Île du Grand Bé at Low Tide
There is a small island called Île du Grand Bé just off the back side (the beach side) of the intra muros that you can walk to during low tide. If you like to swim, wear your swimsuit because there are some great spots here where you can jump into the water. There’s a hilly dirt path that goes up and over the island that makes for a short but scenic hike. One of the most notable things about Île du Grand Bé is the tomb of the famous French writer and politician, François-René Chateaubriand, who was born in Saint-Malo. The writer always wanted his final resting place to be where he spent his childhood. A granite cross marks the spot where he was buried. Just make sure you get back before the path has been covered by the sea so they don’t have to come rescue you. (Follow the other people!)
Where to eat in Saint-Malo
There are dozens of restaurants in Saint-Malo and many of them are very touristy, but here even the touristy ones have good food. You can get fresh oysters (huîtres), and moules-frites (mussels with fries) just about anywhere, and they’re always fresh and delicious. The wine that I mentioned earlier, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Main, is the classic pairing for oysters. It’s a crisp, dry, white wine with mineral and saline characteristics, and the best thing about it, you can find it by the bottle in restaurants for between $15 and $20.
One restaurants that I always go to when I’m in Saint-Malo is Le Lion D’Or. This place is touristy but it has great energy and ambiance and the food is amazing. During the summer months they have a large outdoor terrace set up with numerous tables under an awning and umbrellas draped with string lights.
The menu here is extensive and you can order things like foie gras, fish burgers, or a Camembert burger, mussels, oysters, roasted duck breast, chicken, steak and lamb dishes. They also have the famous Saint-Jacques scallops that they serve with risotto. This is what I always order, and the scallops are tender, sweet and delicious.
Since you are in Brittany, where crêpes and galettes originated, it would be a shame not to indulge in these while you’re here. If you just want a sweet treat, try a crêpe with fillings like lemon and powdered sugar, Nutella, or caramel and chocolate chips. The savory crêpe is called a galette and is made from buckwheat flour, also know as sarrasin. I eat galettes a lot, even when I’m in Paris. They are such an easy, healthy lunch, especially on the go. My favorites are salmon with crème fraîche and capers or ham and cheese with a fried egg. Buckwheat is naturally gluten-free too. There is a very popular crêperie that sits on top of the ramparts called Crêperie Le Corps de Garde. Their crêpes and galettes are very good, and since they have one of the most scenic spots in Saint-Malo, it can get very crowded. They don’t take reservations and there’s only three tables outside, and a few more inside, so if you want a seat, try to get there right when they open.
Bergamote, is a lovely restaurant that is a more elevated crêpe experience. It is run by two brothers and their mother, and is one of my favorites in Saint-Malo. They have an amazing menu that includes several different salads, like a scrambled egg and salmon, smoked duck, and veggie with apples and hazelnuts. Over twenty different savory galettes are listed on their menu, and theirs are the best I’ve ever had. A thoughtfully curated beverage selection includes Irish coffee, Port wine, Kir, traditional Brittany cider as well as Champagne and a small selection of white, red and rosé wine. They also have an extensive offering of the famous Mariage Frères Teas.
Be sure to stop in to Boulangerie Pâtisserie de la Cathédral for a Kouign Amann, the traditional pastry from the Brittany region. This little bundle of deliciousness is made from beaucoup de beurre and sugar. They are soft on the inside and caramelized crunchy on the outside, and quite possibly one of the best things I’ve ever eaten in my life. Boulangerie Pâtisserie de la Cathédral is known for having the best Kouign-Amanns in Saint-Malo but you can find them in boulangeries all over town.
Where to Stay in Saint-Malo
There are different types of accommodations inside the city walls as well as just outside. Prices seem surprisingly reasonable here, even during high season. This may be because I’m so used to Paris hotel prices! One of my favorite places to stay in Saint-Malo is this exquisite two bedroom apartment called Le 1725. The apartment sits inside the city’s walls on a lively street not far from the beach. There is only street parking for this apartment but there are spots to be found close by. When you walk in you are immediately transported back in time. Especially in the kitchen where there is an ancient fireplace and floors made of giant stone slabs, all surrounded by modern appliances. I loved the living room with its comfy leather couches and sweeping windows. There isn’t a view of the water from this apartment but I really liked the street view for people watching.
The listing states only one bedroom but there is also a loft with a double bed, you have to climb up a steep stairway that’s almost like a ladder to get up there, so this may not be an option for some people. The bedroom downstairs has an old vintage fireplace in it and a bathroom off to the side. There is also a room with a toilet just off the kitchen.
There are other equally stunning apartments like Le 1727, a three bedroom apartment inside the walls of Saint-Malo. The apartment is in a historic building and the interior has a vintage French feel to it. Rates are between $500 and $600 per night making it a great value for a family or when sharing amongst three couples.
Of the several hotels inside the walls, one that is highly rated is Hotel Bristol Union. This hotel has a 9.2 rating and is surprisingly very reasonably priced. Rates during the summer months run between $220 and $300 per night. The rooms are clean and modern and most have walk in showers. A lovely onsite bar provides the perfect resting spot after a day at the beach, which is only a five minute walk from the hotel. It’s very important to book your hotel or apartment as early as possible, especially if you’re planning stays between May and August. Hotels book up very quickly during this time period.
If you want to stay outside of the intra muros, I recommend Hotel des Charmettes. It sits right on the esplanade looking out at the sea and is about a mile from the train station. It is very highly rated and popular with French tourists. Rates are around $200 per night in July and August and between $100 and $150 the rest of the year.
Best Day Trips from Saint-Malo
If you want to venture away from the walled city there are several other towns nearby that are easy to get to, even if you don’t have a car. Two charming towns that are worthwhile day trips from Saint-Malo are Dinard and Dinan, and both are easy to reach by catching the ferry just outside the intra muros. But the most famous place to visit along this coast is the medieval walled city that is Mont Saint-Michel. It’s only 35 miles away by car, and sits just on the border of Brittany and Normandy.
Day trip to Mont Saint-Michel from Saint-Malo
Mont-Saint-Michel is a fortified medieval village that was built around a monastery. It was fortified during the Middle Ages to protect the abby and village from invasion during the Hundred Years’ War. Surrounded by powerful tides and reinforced with stone ramparts and defensive towers, the island became one of France’s most powerful strongholds, and was never captured by the English.
To get to Mont-Saint-Michel from Saint-Malo you can drive along the coast, it’s about thirty miles, or if you don’t have a car it’s easy to take the bus. From April 1st to November 2nd this bus runs seven days a week, including public holidays. From November 3rd to April 1st the bus doesn’t run on Sundays or public holidays. When you purchase your tickets you may be given two choices as to where to get on the bus in Saint-Malo. Choose Esplanade Saint-Vincent if you have the choice as it is just outside the city walls. The other stop near the train station is about a mile walk from inside the walled city. The bus ride to Mont-Saint-Michel is just over an hour and about $30 round trip. Once you get off the bus you can take the free shuttle across to Mont-Saint-Michel, or you can walk, it’s about a half mile. If you like to walk I say skip the shuttle, the views along the designated pedestrian walkway are incredible. You might even see some sheep meandering about. Be sure to make note of what time the bus leaves to go back to Saint-Malo and give yourself enough time to get back to the bus departure. For these day trips the bus usually heads back at 3:30, but check your return time when you buy your ticket.
Once inside the walls of the city you can wander around and visit little shops or enjoy a meal, but the main highlight in here is the abby. The Abbey du Mont-Saint-Michel was built in 708 AD and is one of the most famous sites in France. The interior architecture is absolutely stunning and there are several rooms and hallways to explore as well as the cloister garden. Be sure to step out onto the terraces for amazing views of the bay.
I went to Mont-Saint-Michel at the very tail end of Covid when restrictions had only just been lifted. During that time people were still not traveling. My friend and I felt like we had the abbey all to ourselves. We wandered from hall to hall, and room to room without another single person in site. It was something I’ll never forget.
Mont-Saint-Michel
Purchase tickets in advance for the abbey, especially in the busy season as the time slots do sell out, prices range between $15 and $20. The abbey hours are 9:00AM to 7:00PM May 1st to August 31st and 9:30AM to 6:00PM from September 1st to April 30th. It is closed annually January 1st, May 1st and December 25th, and exceptionally March 23, 2026.
Most of the restaurants inside the walls are pretty touristy with low reviews. La Sirène is one of the better options. Their crèpes and galettes are really good, but they are only open noon to 3:00, maybe a little later during the busy season. If your plan is to eat here while you’re at Mont-Saint-Michel, get to the door before they open as it fills up fast and there’s not a lot of seating. For dinner the best option is Restaurant du Guesclin. Their menu has an abundance of fresh seafood like mussels and oysters and fish but theres also many other items like chicken and lamb dishes, steak with pepper sauce, omelettes, salads, and vegetarian pasta.
If you wanted to stay a night or two in Mont-Saint-Michel, there are hotels inside the walls but most of them have poor ratings. If you really want to stay on the island the best option is probably Auberge Saint Pierre, rooms are between $300 and $400 per night. I stayed in the Mercure hotel that is just off the island and loved it. It was clean and affordable with a stylish lobby and restaurant, rooms run between $150 and $200 per night. We were able to walk across to Mont-Saint-Michel very easily from this hotel in about ten minutes.
Day Trip to Dinard from Saint-Malo
Dinard is a charming town that is just a ten minute ferry ride across the bay from Saint-Malo. It was once just a little fishing village but now its popular vacation spot for both British and French people alike. As the ferry makes its way across the water you can often see people on kite boards and stand up paddle boards. In the summer you may even see students from the local sailing school practicing their skills. As you get closer to the tiny ferry dock you immediately notice the architecture, stunning Belle Époque style luxury villas dot the cliffs.
When you get off the ferry and turn left you will be led to the picturesque Promenade du Clair de Lune, I highly recommend taking this little walk. If mobility is an issue you might want to only do the first part along the water as it gets a little steep. The views are amazing from the top.
There is also a swimming beach here but it’s not as good as the one around the point. After walking this promenade head back towards the ferry terminal and pass it. Here you will walk around the point along another promenade that will take you over to the stunning Plage de l’Écluse. This is about a ten minute walk from the ferry terminal. It’s easy to find the way, but if you put in Plage de l’Écluse into your maps app it will give you directions for the walking path. In the summertime this beach is lined with vintage looking striped cabanas and there are dozens of people enjoying the water. On the edge of the beach is a large salt water pool called Piscine de la Porte D’emeraude. The pool is filled by the sea and has a soft sandy bottom that makes you feel like you’re swimming in the ocean. In the summer months the sun heats up the pool making for some enjoyable swimming.
If venture away from the water towards the town you will find yourself walking along cobbled streets where there are many shops selling all kinds of souvenirs, most with a maritime theme. The popular striped French shirt, the marinière, sometimes referred to as the Breton shirt, can be found here in many of the shops.
There are many cafes and restaurants near the beach and they are very touristy, but the seafood is always local and fresh. I really like L’Entre Deux for a casual lunch, it’s only a five minute walk from the beach and the food is amazing. They have delicious burgers and also a fried chicken burger, a fish burger and a vegetarian burger. They also have great salads and a kids menu. The traditional savory buckwheat galettes that Brittany is known for can also be found everywhere.
How to get to Dinard from Saint-Malo
There is a passenger ferry called Compagnie Corsaire that will take you across the bay to Dinard. It’s just across the water and only a short 15 minute ferry ride. The ferry departs from a little dock in the Saint-Malo harbor, which is just outside of the city walls, on the side where the jetty and lighthouse are. The address is Embarcadère Cale de Dinan, Porte de Dinan, 35400 Saint-Malo. You can buy tickets there or buy them online on their website. During busier months, May through September it’s best to purchase your tickets in advance, even the day before is fine. If you don’t want to purchase them online you can just walk over to the ticket counter the day before and purchase them.
Day trip to Dinan from Saint-Malo
Dinan is another worthwhile day trip from Saint-Malo. It’s further than Dinard, and the ferry actually travels up the Rance river. Dinan is a medieval hilltop town with half timbered houses, cobbled streets, and a picturesque river port.
It’s an ideal contrast to the coast, and one of the best day trips from Saint-Malo. It’s so refreshing on a warm summer day to be out on the water, seeing the landscape and architecture along the river. Dinan’s history goes back more than a thousand years. In the Middle Ages it was a fortified trading hub. Wealth from river commerce and a textile trade allowed merchants to build the half–timbered houses and cobbled streets that define its historic center. Dinan’s strategic position made it a strong hold during the Breton Wars of succession in the 14th century.
Over time it evolved from a defensive citadel to a prosperous market town. Walk up Rue du Jerzual, said to be one of the most picturesque streets in Brittany, and you will see shops and restaurants and medieval walls. With its proximity to the sea you can enjoy an abundance of fresh seafood at the many highly rated restaurants. Some favorites include Colibri, about a half mile from the port, open for lunch and dinner, closed Sunday and Monday, La Fleur de Sel, also about a half mile, exceptional quality French fare, open for lunch and dinner, closed Monday and Tuesday.
How to get to Dinan from Saint-Malo
The little passenger ferry to Dinan departs from the same dock as the ferry to Dinard. Saint-Malo harbor, which is right outside of the city walls. This is a longer ferry ride because you travel up the Rance river to get to the base of the town. When you get off the ferry you walk up steep cobblestone streets to see the town. Most of the town sits at the top of the hill. Along the way there are shops and restaurants.
What is the best month to visit Saint-Malo
Saint-Malo is good to visit every month of the year. In the summer you can swim and enjoy the many beaches. In the Fall it will be less crowded and you can still walk along the beach and enjoy incredible sunsets. Winter in Saint-Malo is cold and can be windy but you can still bundle up and take walks along the boardwalk and enjoy the many restaurants. The town starts gearing up for Christmas in November and it starts to becomes a magical winter wonderland of lights and holiday decorations.
How to get to Saint-Malo by train
Traveling to Saint-Malo from Paris: Saint-Malo is one of the easiest coastal towns to reach from Paris by train. I recommend using the SNCF app to book your train tickets, and to purchase them as far in advance as you can. As the summer gets closer, train tickets to popular destinations can double and even triple in price. I took my kids to Saint-Malo one summer and waited until about a month before we were arriving to get our train tickets, we ended up paying $100 per person each way. We had already booked a non-refundable apartment so we had to pay it. To avoid this be sure to get the train tickets as soon as they go on sale. Summer tickets typically start going on sale three months in advance, so at about four months out, go into the app and try to book the tickets. If they are not on sale yet the app will tell you what day they go on sale, then put a reminder on your calendar to book the tickets. Tickets will be more expensive May through August even when you book in advance, and certain days of the week can be twice as much as others. Sunday, Monday and Tuesday tend to be the cheapest days to travel to Saint-Malo at around $25 to $35, and Sunday being the most expensive for going back to Paris, where rates can jump to $100 one way. I suggest checking train tickets before making travel plans, find the days where the rates are the lowest and then book your hotel. The train ride is about three hours if you select a direct (no connections) ticket on the TGV. Trains to this part of France almost always depart from Montparnasse station in the 14th arrondissement .
Is Saint-Malo worth a Visit?
Saint-Malo is so much more than just another charming town in France. It’s memorable in a way that makes a permanent imprint on your heart and soul. It’s the kind of town that lingers with you long after you leave. Walking the ramparts, watching the tides rolling and wandering the narrow streets feels like stepping into another era. For anyone searching for quaint, medieval towns in France that offer both history and atmosphere Saint-Malo delivers in every way. And once you start exploring towns like this, you want to see more, so If you love discovering charming towns in France, you might also enjoy these other beautiful places I’ve written about. Click on the photos below to read about these magical destinations.
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