Yes, the 17th arrondissement is a great choice for long term stays in Paris
If you’re planning a long term stay in Paris, say two weeks or more, and want to avoid the crowded touristy areas, but still want to be in an area that’s safe, then this post is for you. I’m going to tell you why the 17th arrondissement is a perfect choice for long term stays in Paris. There are beautiful parks and green spaces and little hidden gem market streets and restaurants. Plus, there’s an abundance of other interesting places nearby, most within walking distance. The 17th arrondissement will charm you with its magic. At the end of this post I will give you a list of hotels and apartments in the 17th arrondissement, including details on the apartment I stayed in, my full Guide to Boutique Hotels in Paris, and a mini guide to purchasing tickets to the sites in Paris.
In my early days of visiting Paris, like many people, I typically stayed in the 5th or 6th arrondissement, or in the Marais (3rd & 4th), and always in a hotel. I do recommend those areas for first (or second) timers, but for me, once I started going to Paris more often and staying for several months at a time, I wanted to be outside of the core tourist areas. So this year I found a really great little studio apartment, and it just happened to be in the 17th arrondissement. Up until now I hadn’t fully explored this area of Paris, so I didn’t know what to expect. I had walked through Square Batignolles, and adored it, but that was only a very brief visit several years ago. I had no idea of all the hidden treasures that are scattered throughout it. This is a true Parisian family neighborhood. You can expect to see kids kicking soccer balls down the sidewalk or chasing each other with squirt guns. I’ve also never seen so many baby buggies in my life. There are very few tourists here except maybe on the edge, near the Arc de Triomphe. I could actually walk down the sidewalk without having to dodge people right and left.. and yet all the things that I hope to see and experience in Paris were all around me.
The 17th arrondissement is in the upper left side of the Paris snail (the arrondissements are arranged in a clockwise coil that resembles a snail shell) and sits right up against the periphique, sometimes referred to as the “ring road” that encircles Paris proper. People sometimes think of the 17th as Batignolles, but there are actually four separate quartiers or districts within its boundaries. At the south end of the arrondissement, bordering the 16th, is Ternes, then heading north you have Monceau, Batignolles and Epinettes. Monceau and Batignolles border the 8th and Epinettes borders the 18th.
Best Neighborhoods in the 17th arrondissement
Quartier Ternes
Ternes is the district that is the furthest south, it borders the 16th, the 8th and the Bois de Boulogne. It’s also very close to the Arc de Triomphe. My apartment was in the Ternes neighborhood, and it was about a ten minute walk to the Arc. I walked up this way often, the architecture of the buildings along the way are some of the most stunning in Paris.
It’s up this direction that I found a restaurant right on the edge of the tourist area called Monsieur Madame. I enjoyed many meals and glasses of wine here and even got to know the staff and some of the regulars. The employees at this restaurant could give a masterclass on customer service. They were friendly, and accommodating every time I was there. Their beef bourguignon is delicious, and they also have a nice cheese plate to go with some high quality wines by the glass like Sancerre, Saint-Emilion, Vouvray, and some red and white Bourgogne. One of my favorite things here is the people watching. If you can get a table either on the sidewalk or the little platform that looks out onto the sidewalk, then you’ve just secured yourself a front row seat to one of the best shows on earth. Except the people watching here isn’t tourists. You’re watching the citizens of Paris, and I promise, if you sit here, you will be entertained for hours. One of the locals, who I saw several times, always had her little dog Nina with her. Me and Nina became fast friends and her owner even let her lay on my lap for a while! Needless to say, that was a pretty great afternoon.
Things to do near the Ternes neighborhood
Rue Poncelet is in this neighborhood, it’s one of those market streets in Paris that people might not know about. It is here that you will likely see local chefs buying what they need for their evening menus. This market was just around the corner from my apartment, less than a half mile walk.
Something I really enjoyed when I was staying in the Ternes neighborhood, was to cross over the periphique into the outer suburb of Neuilly-sur-Seine. I remember reading years ago to never cross the periphique because it wasn’t safe, but I’ve found that that’s not always true.
The photo above shows the street that crosses over into the suburbs from the 17th.
This suburb is vibrant and full of families. High quality cafes, restaurants and beautiful tree-lined streets and parks. It’s known as a high-end, affluent area, although the restaurant and hotel prices seemed to be way below what you pay in the core tourist areas.
The neighborhood is full of Parisian charm and people are very friendly. I loved this little suburb and would definitely stay in this area in the future. While heading in that direction to walk one day, I stumbled upon the cutest little French bistro called Le Paris 17. My friend and I had lunch there and it became a new favorite in Paris. Below are more pictures of my walk through this area.
The Bois de Boulogne is near the Ternes neighborhood. From my apartment the edge of the bois was less than a mile walk. I had always wanted to check out this forested area, but as a woman traveling solo I don’t usually opt for walks alone in the woods, even during the day. Since I was staying so close I knew I wanted venture in. I entered into the bois through a little park called Square Alexandre et René Parodi, named after two brothers of the French resistance.
There’s a path through the park and parts of it can be a little remote. I walked through the park on the inner path, but it was during the day and I was with a friend and there were a lot of other people around. If I was alone I would have stuck to the outer path. The outer paths have sidewalks and beautiful homes on the street and it’s fairly residential.
The Foundation Louis Vuitton is right inside the north border of the bois, very near Nueilly-sur-Seine. The building, designed by Frank Gehry, is the main attraction here. It’s a huge structure with sweeping glass and steel components that look like sails. It looks like a massive ship. I’ve never been inside but my friend who lives in Paris went to one of their temporary exhibits, which is what people usually come here for. She said the interior is as stunning as the outside. Earlier in 2025 they featured the works of David Hockney, and currently (Oct 2025 through March 2026) on display are the paintings of Gerhard Richter. Get your tickets in advance though because these sell out quickly.
A not so little secret garden lies inside the Bois de Boulogne, the stunning Parc Bagatelle. It sits right in the center of the bois and it’s about a ten minute walk from the Louis Vuitton Museum.
Parc Bagatelle is one of the most splendid parks in all of Paris. Mainly because of its flower gardens. There are acres and acres of beautifully manicured gardens and trees all throughout the park. Further into the park you will see a charming garden pavilion and a stunning 19th century Chinese pagoda. There’s a good chance that you’ll run into one of the many peacocks that live on the grounds. They’re very friendly and curious and they love performing for visitors.
There’s an entrance fee of $3, but from October 1st to April 1st entry is free. The park is open everyday from 9:30AM to 5:00PM. From my apartment in Ternes, the park is a 2 mile walk. If your not staying in the area, you can easily hop on metro line one from the center of Paris at Bastille, Chatelet, or Tuileries towards La Defense and get off at the Pont de Neuilly metro stop, from there it is a 20 minute walk.
The Monceau Neighborhood
Heading the other direction, out of Ternes, is Monceau. It’s the little area next to Ternes, before Batignolles. You may have heard of Parc Monceau, it’s a popular park amongst both locals and tourists. The park is technically in the 8th arrondissement, just across Boulevard de Courcelles, but if you’re staying in the lower part of the 17th it’s less than a mile away.
You’ll find benches for sitting, a children’s playground and a large pond with columns and a bridge. A path winds through the park and stretches around the perimeter, making this a great spot for running or walking. There are public restrooms here too, which is always helpful if you’re out walking for several hours.
The Musée Nissim de Camondo is right outside of the park and it’s well worth a visit, especially if you like cozy, small museums. From my apartment the walk to Parc Monceau was less than a mile.
The Batignolles neighborhood
Beginning in the Ternes area there is a garden walkway that runs through the center of Boulevard Pereire heading north. It’s part botanical garden, part playground, part city park with a pedestrian pathway all the way through. Inside the park you can walk up through Monceau, and it leads all the way to the Batignolles neighborhood. It is full of beautiful trellises with rose bushes as well as other flowering plants and trees.
This promenade stretches for several blocks, and each block has its own little garden with its own name. I always walked through here whenever I was heading north.
You could stay on the garden promenade all the way to Batignolles, but the green space changes when it reaches Square Albert Bernard and eventually drops below street level. There’s not as many people down there and I felt safer staying on the street level. So I would pop back onto the sidewalk of Boulevard Periere at Place Periere then take that street all the way to Batignolles. Batignolles is definitely my favorite neighborhood in the 17th, it’s packed full of restaurants, cafés, shops, parks and gorgeous buildings. From my apartment it was just over a mile walk to get into the Batignolles area and I walked up there often.
One of my favorite statues in Paris is in this neighborhood. It’s a bronze sculpture by Didier Audit called Hommage à Solitude. The woman, Solitude, was an enslaved woman who resisted Napoleons attempt to reinstate slavery after it had been abolished during the French Revolution. She was pregnant when she was captured and was executed after giving birth. She is an eternal symbol of courage, dignity, and sacrifice.
Two parks that I think are worth visiting in Paris are in the Batignolles neighborhood. Square des Batignolles is a beautiful small park with flowering trees and a little river running through the middle of it. There’s even a carousel and a vintage wrought iron gazebo. If you’re staying in the 17th, this is a great place to come sit on a bench and eat lunch or read a book.
The other park that I absolutely love and was surprised by is Parc Martin Luther King. It stretches from Rue Cardinet all the way up to the edge of the periphique. This park is huge, about 25 acres. It has an abundance of different plants and trees that make it feel like a botanical garden. A large water feature sits at the west side of the park as well as fixed lounging chairs scattered around. I was here in the late spring and it was already hot outside, and the grassy areas were packed full of people just enjoying the park and being outdoors. There’s a path all the way around the perimeter where you can see runners doing their laps. This became my go to place for a running. It’s also a fantastic place to sit and people watch.
One of my favorite streets in the Batignolles neighborhood is Rue de Levis. It’s a lively market street bustling with shops, cafés and restaurants. It’s a really fun street to walk down. You see mostly locals doing their shopping, walking their dogs or shuffling their children along after school.
This area has an abundance of great restaurants. Two of my favorites were Janine and Le Quatre Vingt Neuf.
The Épinettes neighborhood
The Épinettes neighborhood is the furthest north and borders Montmartre. Once you cross over Avenue de Saint-Ouen you’re in the 18th. Some famous creatives once lived in this quartier such as the painter Alfred Sisely, writer Émile Zola, and poet Jules Laforgue. It is also this street where the famous French actress Catherine Deneuve was born. This is a serene neighborhood that is best known for a rustic little cobblestone street called Cité des Fleurs. I absolutely love walking in this area. There’s not a single tourist to be seen anywhere. You can also walk through Square Épinettes where you can see Ginko and Chestnut trees and other flowering plants depending on the time of year. This is a great place to sit and watch the world go by. Not far from the square is the Saint Joseph des Épinettes church, known for its beautiful stained glass on the interior.
My time in the 17th left me feeling a little like Alice, the one who fell down the rabbit hole, into a magical world she never knew existed. From the parks and squares, to the cute little market streets, all the charm you’d hope to find in Paris is here, minus the tourists. It sounds too good to be true, but I promise you, it’s real. So if you’ve ever wondered “is the 17th arrondissement a good neighborhood to stay in Paris?” My answer is a resounding “yes.”
Where to stay in the 17th arrondissement
There are many sites for booking hotels and apartments in Paris. Airbnb is the platform that first comes to mind for most people for booking apartments. However, sometimes with Airbnb there can be issues with cancellations. In my detailed Guide to Booking Hotels and Apartments in Paris, I outline everything you need to know when booking accommodations in Paris. You can click here to read it. Below are some highly rated hotels and apartments in the 17th arrondissement.
Hotels in the 17th Arrondissement
Hôtel Zoku – This is a Michelin Guide recommended hotel in the 17th arrondissement. It sits right up against the periphique behind the beautiful park Martin Luther King. Square Batignolles is only a 10 minute walk from here. The hotel offers beautiful rooms with air conditioning, a workout room, a rooftop bar, and an amazing restaurant. With more than 2000 reviews this hotel has a 9 rating out of 10 on the booking platform. Rates in May run $185-$250.
Hôtel El Dorado Paris – This is an absolutely gorgeous hotel with over 200 reviews and a 9.4 rating. It is located on the Rue des Dames where you will also find one of my favorite restaurants, Janine. This hotel offers all the amenities you could eat on a trip to Paris. They have a French restaurant on site for lunch or dinner and they also do high tea. They also have a bar and a terasse. A fitness center with a sauna. Air conditioning, 24 hours reception, elevator. This is one of the best locations for a longer stay in Paris… square Batignolles market streets, restaurants – easy metro to major sights. Rooms run $250-$400 depending on the month.
B Montmartre – Another amazing hotel in the 17th. The hotel has over 2000 reviews with a 9 rating. This hotel offers all the amenities you would want including air-conditioning, elevator to upper rooms, a restaurant and bar, satellite TV, Top room floors have great views of the city and some of the lower level rooms have adorable little outdoor patios. The location is fantastic as it is walking distance into Montmartre. Moulin Rouge is Sacré Coeur is min away. Rooms run $350-$400
Apartments in the 17th Arrondissement
While I felt that I hit the jackpot with my little apartment, it might not be the right fit for everyone. The apartment is very small, just a room with a bed, a shower, a fridge, a microwave and a little stovetop. A few things to consider if renting this apartment: it doesn’t have air conditioning (I was there at the end of May and it was already starting to get hot in Paris) and no elevator (7th floor). Luckily I’m strong and in good shape, so I was able to manage. Also, the toilet is outside of the room and down the hall, shared with the two other tenants on the same floor. This didn’t bother me, I hardly saw my neighbors while I was there. If these things aren’t an issue, then this apartment is probably one of the best values you can find in Paris. Depending on time of year it runs around $1,200 a month.
Apartment avec Terrasse – 22 reviews 9.7 rating. This is a really cool typical Parisian apartment. Nothing fancy but tons of character and a 9.9 rating on cleanliness. There’s a cute little tersasse, a washing machine, and a walk in shower with a rainfall showerhead. The host is English speaking which is always helpful. This apartment is very well situated, close to the parks mentioned above as well as Montmartre. Sacré Coeur is about a mile and a half walk from here. Around $225 per night.
Apartment with a View of Sacre Coeur – 7 Reviews 9.7 rating. This looks like a new listing and that probably why they dont have as many reviews, but all of the reviews give extremely high praise about this rental. This apartment is only about a half mile walk into Montmartre. So really close to all the fun things in that area but outside of the tourist chaos. It’s also walking distance to the parks I mentioned above, only a half mile walk to Square des Batignolles and Park Martin Luther King. It also has air conditioning and an elevator! This apartment doesn’t offer a full refund if you have to cancel, only 50%. They also require a minimum seven night stay. Rates are around $150 per night.
Parc Monceau Luxury Flat – 45 reviews 9.2. The highlights of this apartment are rustic exposed beams, walk in shower with rainfall showered. No elevator or air conditioning but there is a washing machine. It has very high scores for cleanliness and location, both 9.6. The lowest ratings on this apartment were 6 and 8 and mostly due to the wifi being very poor. The host has Thursdays through Saturday nights blocked here, so the longest stay you could do is four nights, Sunday through Thursday. So still a great option but only for a shorter stay. Fully refundable with rates around $300 per night.
Deluxe Studio Champs Elysees – 77 reviews 9.4 rating. This is a no-frills small apartment in the 17th. The highlights of this property are free wifi, a beautiful walk in shower, a washing machine and a little balcony. This apartment is very near the apartment that I stayed in this year, in the Ternes area. It’s very close to the Arc de Triomphe and the Bois de Bologne. It’s about a mile and a half to the parks in Batignolles. This one is also only partially refundable and runs around $150 per night in May.
I really enjoy staying in the outer arrondissements, one of my other favorites is the 18th near Montmartre. You can read my full guide here. You can also see a list of my favorite restaurants by arrondissement by heading over to the Paris by arrondissement page.
I’ve recently discovered the ticketing site Tiqets and it’s an amazing one stop shop for pretty much everything you want to see and do in Paris especially if you’re wanting to hire a guide. For basic entry tickets, for the Louvre for example, current rates are around $25 per person and you should purchase these from their direct site. I tell people to use Tiqets for guided tours, where you’re paying a little extra for the guide. These guides are experts in their field and well worth the extra money. The first time I went to the Louvre I had no idea where I was going, I kept backtracking and wandering around in circles, even with the map, it’s very confusing because it’s so huge. The guide knows the museum inside and out and they know all about the artwork, they can take you where you want to go and tell you what you shouldn’t miss. You can find guided tours on their site for things like Père Lachaise Cemetery as inexpensive as $20. You can buy curated experiences here but also the $27 Eiffel Tower tickets which can be an option if your dates are sold out on the towers direct site.
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8 Responses
With so many beautiful places to see, it makes me wish that I would never have to sleep while vacationing in France.
I am an old lady who adores the 17th for all the reasons stated in this vlog. When young, I lived in the Ternes area, place St Ferdinand, and loved it, as then I worked at the library of the Drugstore Champs Elysee. When I returned from living 50 years in London, I often went back to the 17th, adored it still ! I love la Plaine Monceau, Les Batignolles, Rue Poncelet, Cité des Fleurs, all the way to Place de Clichy, metro Brochant. Your article is wonderfully written and illustrated. I am glad that you mentioned le Parc de Bagatelles, owned once by a certain Richard Wallace, he of the famous dark green Paris fountains. Wonderful gardens populated by hordes of cats. Great area !
Thank you Lise!
Your Article,was so beautiful and to speak about Paris which I love.
I am off to Paris late February.
Thank you
Dawn Lioi.
Thank you Dawn! Enjoy your time in Paris!