An insiders favorite small museum in the 7th arrondissement

An Intimate Museum in Paris (7th arrondissement)

So you’ve already been to Paris once or twice. You’ve seen the Louvre and the Orsay and want to try a new museum. There are so many small and intimate museums in Paris. One that I really enjoy is the Rodin Museum or the Musée Rodin. I think this is one of the most magical museums in Paris because you feel like you’re visiting a beautiful, historic home surrounded by gardens and statues (not to mention the views of the Eiffel Tower and Invalides).

Whenever I decide to go to a museum, I like to learn as much history about the place as I can beforehand. Then, when I go inside I have a better comprehension of what I’m seeing. Or what to look for.

I learned some very interesting things about Mr. Rodin. Let’s just say, his love life was a little rocky. While he was in a long term relationship with the woman he would eventually marry, he fell madly in love with a different woman. A much younger woman. His student. His inspiration. His Muse. And, some might say, his creative equal. The 19 year old student was Camille Claudel. The woman who would become his wife was Rose Beuret. And, the two women, understandably, despised each other.

Camille and Rodin had a very intense and passionate romantic relationship that lasted for over 10 years. The young student was an aspiring sculptor, and the two bonded over their shared passion for the art of sculpting. During their affair, he is said to have created some of his most passionate pieces, including Crouching Woman, The Kiss and Eternal Springtime. Camille was a very talented sculptor in her own right. Unlike Rodin, who honed his skill over time, Camille was more of a prodigy. She had raw talent and Rodin recognized it. In fact, she worked on many of his most famous sculptures.

Unfortunately, their love story doesn’t have a happy ending. Camille was in love with Rodin and wanted him to break up with Rose. He refused and so she left him. This upset him deeply, but he found solace with his many female models. Camille on the other hand, became so completely consumed with grief that her mentor and lover had not chosen her, that she struggled emotionally and ended up lashing out. It is said that she smashed and broke many of her own sculptures. She was close with her father, and he was there for her during this time and supported her in her work. However, when he died, her brother had her committed to a mental hospital. It has been said that, although the paperwork for the hospital had been marked as a voluntarily committal, it was anything but that. Some questioned weather or not she was actually ill. Maybe she was just really pissed off? Sadly, she stayed in the asylum until her death in 1943 at the age of 78.

There are a lot more nuances to this story, including how hard it was for women to be respected in the art world during this time period. Women weren’t allowed to go to art school. Their only option was to find someone to tutor them. There have been several movies and even more books that discuss the fiery relationship between Rodin and Camille. And there are many different versions of and opinions about it. Some might say, behind every great man is a great woman. Others might say she was merely a distraction. Click here to go to the museum website, where you can read more about their relationship. I would love to hear your thoughts in the comment section below!

Meditation or The Inner Voice by Auguste Rodin

The Rodin Museum was opened in 1919 in the historic Hôtel Biron, which was built in 1727. In a series of rooms, there are sweeping arched windows, built in mirrors and stunning glass chandeliers. There is a marble fireplace that is ensconced by ornately carved wood panels, where it is easy to imagine the artist warming himself by the flames. Rodin used the hotel as his workshop and sanctuary. He agreed that, upon his death he would donate his sculptures to the state on the condition that they would use the building as a museum to showcase his work. He also donated paintings by artist friends such as Van Gogh, Monet and Renoir from his personal collection. The courtyard area in the front of the museum often has temporary exhibits such as was the case in the photo above of one of Rodin’s sculptures lying on the steps of the building.

Inside, you will find other storied pieces like The Kiss and The Walking Man.

There are several famous busts, including the bust of Victor Hugo.

I was happy to see that the museum also pays homage to Camille Claudel. There is a room showcasing some of her sculptures, including The Waltz, and one of her most famous pieces, The Mature Age.

The outside area is one of my favorite things about this museum. You will find some of Rodin’s most iconic sculptures here including, The Thinker and The Gates of Hell. The grounds are full of meticulously groomed, cone shaped trees, rose bushes and other greenery. On the back side of the building a small lake is flanked by exquisite gardens and tree lined paths. There are sculptures scattered all through the gardens, as well as several places to sit and reflect or to just rest for a while.

Within the grounds there is the L’Augustine Café where you can have lunch or a snack. The menu has a nice selection of pastries, salads and pasta, including some vegetarian options. You can also order beer, wine or Champagne.

The museum is on the left bank of the Seine river and sits right on the border of the 6th and 7th arrondissement. It is just over a mile from the Eiffel Tower. It’s less than a 5 min walk from Varenne metro station and about a 10 minute walk from Invalides metro. Entrance fee is €14.
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday 10:00AM to 6:30PM (last entry is at 5:45PM)

📍Musée Rodin
+33 (0)1 44 18 61 10
77 Rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris, France

There is another Rodin Museum in Meudon which is about eleven miles outside of Paris. The museum is housed in the Villa des Brilliants, where Rodin lived until his death is 1917. The villa itself is quite beautiful and interesting to visit. Here you can observe the artist’s many plaster casts. The casts tell the story of Rodin’s process and it is quite fascinating. In the garden there is a sculpture of The Thinker placed on Rodin’s tomb. Both he and his wife Rose are buried here. This museum is open Saturdays and Sundays, however it closes for the winter beginning in October and reopens in April. Entrance is free.
To get here you can take the metro to Mairie d’Issy and then get onto bus 190 towards Église (buses come every 15 minutes). Get off the bus at Chemin des Vignes, it’s about a half mile walk from there.

📍Musée Rodin Meudon
+33 (0)1 41 14 35 00
19 Avenue Auguste Rodin, Meudon, France

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