Best of Normandy: The White Cliffs of Étretat

The white cliffs of Étretat are only a 3 hour train ride from Paris. It’s quite easy to do a quick overnight trip from Paris. Trains leave from Gare Saint Lazare station in the morning and the journey is around 3 hours. Check the @sncf app for exact times. The last leg of the trip is by bus (included in your train ticket 🎟️) The train stops in Breaute Beuzeville where there is a bus waiting for everyone going to Étretat. Jump off the train right onto the bus 🚌. It’s a really nice bus too! After a 20 minute bus ride you are let off right in the center of this enchanting little seaside town.

The sea is a mere five minute walk from where the bus stop. You can immediately see the white cliffs. The gardens of Étretat are almost as big of a draw to this town as the white cliffs. It is a short walk from town up a grassy path, although slightly steep, it’s not far. There is a little cafe and outdoor seating in the garden.

The town is very walkable. It is absolutely charming and picturesque, a photographers dream destination. There are many historic dwellings and rustic elements that tell a story of a time gone by. It’s so easy to let your mind wander to its distant past, and to who the characters might have been and what life would have been like.

There are several hotels in Étretat but I’ll take a B&B over a hotel any day of the week. Les Tilleuls is a sublime Bed & Breakfast located right in the heart of town. It is run by a lovely French couple who graciously welcome you into their stunning home. As you make your way through a sea of cornices, coving and corbels, you feel as though you have just stepped into an issue a French Home & Garden magazine. The rooms are large and well appointed with beds covered in scrumptious French linens and pillows. The en-suite bathroom has a dreamy walk-in rain shower with ornate ceramic tiling. Every room has elegant french doors that lead to an outdoor sitting terrace. 🌸

In the morning you can head down to the dining room for breakfast with the other guests, and Tilia the big white, fluffy dog. Your hosts will make you perfectly cooked fried eggs served up with assorted cold cuts, fruit and croissants. 🥐 And as many espresso shots as you need to start your day. ☕️

And as if this overnight couldn’t get any better, it did. I had walked around town looking for a place to have a late lunch. Everything looked super touristy, especially up by the waterfront. I’m a little persnickety about where I eat and didn’t see anything yet that was calling to me. I started heading back to the B&B and I stumbled upon a restaurant called Bel Ami. I walked in through the rustic glass French door and was immediately surrounded by an abundance of cozy furnishings. I looked at the menu and I loved what I was saw! Reservation made.

And if things couldn’t get any better, they have a little wine room where you can go pick a bottle to go with your meal. Ok, you had me at wine room. If I’m patient, my instincts and intuition usually lead me to something amazing. This was definitely one of those times.

The food was excellent! But my fondest memories of this place will always be the staff. The owner and his entire team were incredibly kind to me. I had a late lunch so I was one of the last people in there after everyone else left. We got to talking about wine, (I couldn’t finish my bottle so I gave it to the staff, which made them giggle) and about the owner. The staff couldn’t speak highly enough of the owner. They loved him and loved working for him. The owner, Mourad, chatted with me quite a bit and shared with me about his Spanish and Moroccan heritage and how he was born in Marseille but lived most of his life in Paris, and visits Paris often to see his grown children. Being able to have this time with the staff was so special to me. It was the icing on the cake for the whole weekend. I did this trip by myself from Paris and felt completely safe and comfortable the whole time. I highly recommend this excursion to anyone wanting to see a little more of the country!

Le Bel Ami
25/27 Rue Alphonse Karr,
76790 Étretat, France
Closed Mon & Tues
Wed – Sun 11:45-2:30 & 6:45-10:00PM

Les Tilleuls
45 Rue Isabey, Étretat
76790, France

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