A locals favorite neighborhood restaurant in the Marais

Au Bascou (3rd Arrondissement)

I call Au Bascou a hidden gem not because it’s hidden, the restaurant does sit back a bit from the main street but you can definitely still see it. Some visitors might not notice it, or if they did they might not venture inside. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with the outside of the restaurant – it looks like… a restaurant. Just that there are no fancy plastic flowers lining the doorway, like you see in other areas like Rivoli or Rue de Buci. Can I just say that some of my least favorite restaurant experiences in Paris have been at places with beaucoup de fleurs en plastique?

Au Bascou translated means “from the bottom.” The Basque region of France is located down at the bottom edge of the country bordering Spain; the southern Basque Country lies entirely within Spain. This area is known for its unique culture and history. Dishes incorporate ingredients that originate in the region, such as Idiazabal (a sheep cheese similar to Manchego), and Espelette peppers. Typical menu items include seafood, veal, and stews.

This restaurant was recommended to me by a local family that I was staying with at a nearby Airbnb. Au Bascou was where I ate my first meal after a recent flight to Paris from Seattle. I was tired, jet lagged, and hungry. They closed at 2:00 and we walked in at 1:59. We were walking as fast as we could to get there before they closed. Typically if the restaurant hours are 11:00-2:00, that means you can still get seated at 2:00. So we were hopeful. Laurent greeted us at the door. He could see the situation on our faces. In a tone bordering panic, I started to say “I know you close at 2:00 but…” There was no need to plead and tell him how we had just landed and that we were really hungry and we really wanted to eat there! He gestured to a tiny round table right by the door, in a little nook surrounded by windows on three sides. This is one of those tables that I think some people may not love. We had to move the table all the way to the window so we could scooch into our chairs. For me, these tables are always the best in the house. I love being able to look back into the restaurant to see everything that’s going on, and also be able to look out the window and people-watch. Major score.

Renaud Marcille took over as Chef and owner from their previous Chef, Bertrand Guéneron, in 2018. Marcille made only a few edits to the interior when he took the helm and continues to focus on farm to table. Seasonality and products from small producers are of top importance. You will still see the traditional dishes carried forward but with Marcille’s personalized touch. He’s also added a few exciting new items to the menu.

The interior is quintessential French. Linen table cloths, cute little lamps on the tables, exposed stone, whimsical artwork, and a beautiful wooden bar lined with the good kind of wine glasses. Large, super thin, and perfectly polished. There were no tourists inside. The people eating here looked like locals on their lunch break or just out with clients. Laurent brought the menu to our table: a chalkboard written with all of the day’s offerings. A small menu but with all the right authentic French fare. Foie gras de canard, Cabillaud (Cod) au chorizo, a veal dish, Axoa de veau (pronunciation: ashoa), a typical Basque dish prepared with mashed veal, onions, tomatoes sauté, flavored with red Espelette pepper. There was also a chicken dish: Suprême de volaille, served with polenta crémeuse, and a couple of desserts that included a beautiful vanilla Millefeuille. I couldn’t decide between the Cabillaud and the scallops! I love cod and almost always order it when I see it on a menu. This time I went with the scallops. They were Saint Jacques scallops, which are my favorite, served with endive, orange espuma, and chives. You could taste their freshness and they were perfectly cooked. My friend ordered the duck breast. I like duck, but don’t typically order it. I’m more of a duck leg confit person. She offered me a bite and it was so tender and flavorful, I immediately knew I needed to come back and order it. So many reasons to return! They have an extensive wine list with many wines from the Basque region however, I opted for a bottle of premier Cru Chablis, which paired nicely with my scallops. The food here is some of the best I’ve had in Paris. With it’s warm and cozy interior and extremely kind staff, Au Bascou definitely checks all of my boxes.

Au Bascou is in the 3rd arrondissement and very easy to get to from anywhere in Paris. If you’re staying on the right bank in the Marais or 1st or 2nd arrondissement, you could definitely walk here; it’s no more than a mile. If you’re on the left bank in the 7th you could also walk, perhaps a little further depending on where you are. From the left bank 5th or 6th arrondissements take metro line 4, toward Clignancourt; you can get on at Odéon or Saint Michel, get off at Réaumer-Sébastopol and it’s about a 7 minute walk from there.

Au Bascou
38 Rue Réaumur,
75003, Paris, France

Mon -Fri 12:00-2:00 & 7:45-10:30
Sat Closed
Sunday Closed

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