Walking in Paris: Off the Beaten Path half-day itinerary for foodies

If you want to know where the “cool kids” eat in Paris, then look no further than Aupa Caminito in the 13^tharrondissement. I absolutely love this place for so many reasons! This bohemian little “street food” restaurant is known for creating a new kind of burger, one that includes two of the most iconic menu items of France: beef bourguignon and the croissant. This beast is known as the Croger, half croissant, half burger.

Step inside Aupa Caminito, and you’re transported into a world of charm and character. The interior is decorated in a brocante style, where mismatched vintage chairs and quirky knick-knacks create a whimsical ambiance. String lights hang from the ceiling, and antique mirrors adorn the walls. Every little detail adds to the restaurant’s personality. It’s a space that invites you to relax, take your time, and soak in the atmosphere. You’ll likely be welcomed by the extremely friendly owner and creator of the Croger, Aurelien. Order at the counter, or pick a table that’s available and someone will come over to take your order.

The star of the menu here are the croissant burgers, aka Crogers, and sandwiches. There are many options to choose from, for example, pulled pork (cooked low and slow for 12 hours), fresh tuna with potatoes, olives, capers and Emmentaler cheese, Portobello mushroom with pickled cucumbers and tomatoes, or scrambled eggs. But my absolute favorite is the beef bourguignon Croger. Aupa’s beef bourguignon is some of the juiciest and most flavorful that I’ve had in Paris. It’s astounding the amount of beef that they pile onto the croissant! I literally had to eat some of it with my fork before I could even think about picking it up. And I must mention the gorgeous mismatched plates. Their elegance creates a super cool contrast to the monster that is served on them.

In addition to the Crogers, there are other things on the menu like Ratatouille, a Basque chicken bowl (simmered 4 hours), avocado toast or salmon toast with tzatziki, both served on one of their famous toasted croissants. There a few different salads on the menu including a potato salad, a crunchy house made coleslaw, and a Greek Salad. They also have sweet treats like Crème brûlée and chocolate croissants. For drinks you can get smoothies or fresh made juices, as well as beer and wine.

Aupa Caminito is the perfect ending point to one of my favorite walks in Paris. The walk starts on the left bank in the 5th arrondissement. Shakespeare & Company would be a good landmark for a starting point. This walk is about 2.5 miles.

Starting from Shakespeare and Company head south. I like to walk on the left side of the street so I can be close to the river. Each section of road along the Seine is a Quai, you’ll be on Quai De Montebello as you walk past the two islands on your left, the first and biggest one, Île de la Cité, is where you’ll see Notre Dame. The second Island is the smaller one, Île Saint-Louis. Keep walking along Quai de la Tournelle and on to Quai Saint-Bernard. Here is where you’ll come upon one of my favorite spots along the river, Jardin Tino-Rossi. This is the place where you can often see people swing dancing or doing the waltz.

Just beyond Jardin Tino Rossi on the right side of the street, you will find the Jardin des Plantes. This is a wonderful garden to walk through or sit on a bench to rest for a few minutes. Depending on the time of year you will see many different flowering trees as well as a variety of plants and flowers.

Continue along the river and you will pass along Quai D’Austerlitz, Quad de la Gare and finally Quai François Mauriac. Here on the right is the Bibliothèque National de France. This is where you will find the stunning giant globes that used to belong to King Louis XIV. These globes are really spectacular and I highly recommend this stop. Entry was free last time I was there. It can be a little tricky to figure out how to go in to this building. The first thing you see when approaching the building is a massive structure of stairs. Go up the stairs and head to your left. You’ll come to an elevator, as well as some stairs, that take you down to the entrance.

Come out of the Bibliothèque National the same way you went in and continue heading south until you come to Rue Thomas Mann. Turn right here. Keep walking up until you get to Avenue de France. Cross the street and continue down a little ways. This street doesn’t go anywhere but it takes you to a cute little neighborhood park on the left called Jardin Cyprian Norwid. There is a gate that you can go through to walk to the other side of the park and exit. If you need a rest this is a great spot. This park is always full of people. Students from the nearby Thomas Mann College, as well as families and children, can be seen sitting in the grass or on one of the many benches. There’s also a public restroom here. Head out through the gate on the other side of the park and take a right onto Rue des Grands Moulins. From here, the famous croissant burger that you’ve been craving is just a five minute walk away. Continue until you come to Rue du Dessous des Berges, which is the street that Aupa Caminito is on. You cant miss it. Enjoy!

Aupa Caminito
Call: 06 02 84 13 80
48-50 Rue Dessous des Berges
75013, Paris, France

Hours:
Monday to Friday 12:00 – Midnight
Sat & Sun 11:00 – Midnight

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